Saw the first episode of Carnivale last night.. What an amazingly brilliant show!It's everything I've been told, and more. It certainly has the feeling of Lynch's Twin Peakes and Shaun Cassidy's American Gothic (and also John Ford's version of Steinbeck's Grapes of Wrath, according to amazon.com).
The show is worth watching just for it's production design and cinematography. Every scene has a mystical quality, the light is filtered and yellow-brown. Interiors are dark and shadows fill the corners... the Oklahoma dust is everywhere. The constant reminder of the super-natural is everywhere, though hard to pin down exactly.
Carnivale looks to be heading towards being truly great television, adding another trophy to HBO's already crowded mantlepiece.